Material Memory and Visual Communication: Archival Practice in Nigerian Fabric Waste Art – The Case of Jachima Gallery

  • Mayowa Johnson Agbeniga HSE University
Keywords: visual communication, material culture, postcolonial visual culture, environmental media, archival practice, Nigerian contemporary art

Abstract

This study examines how Lagos-based artist Chidinma Miracle Obi-Nwafor (Jachima Gallery) transforms discarded textiles into communicative artifacts that archive material histories typically erased through disposal. Based on fieldwork in Lagos, Nigeria (December 2025), including in-depth artist interview and visual analysis of fabric waste collages, the research reveals how waste materials function as visual media that communicate environmental consequences, postcolonial material flows, and counter-narratives to dominant consumption systems. Drawing on Hal Foster’s archival impulse theory and material culture frameworks, the analysis demonstrates how artists working with textile waste operate as visual archivists who preserve indexical evidence of consumption patterns, labor histories, and ecological crises. The study contributes to understanding how visual communication through reclaimed materials generates alternative knowledge orders that challenge institutional narratives. Findings illuminate the intersection of visual culture, material communication, and environmental media, showing how artistic practice transforms waste into communicative evidence within postcolonial contexts where oversaturation with Global North textile waste creates both material abundance and environmental crisis.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biography

Mayowa Johnson Agbeniga, HSE University

Student of the Doctoral Program “Art and Design”

References

Appadurai, A. (Ed.). (1986). The social life of things: Commodities in cultural perspective. Cambridge University Press.

Bennett, J. (2010). Vibrant matter: A political ecology of things. Duke University Press.

Brooks, A. (2015). Clothing poverty: The hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. Zed Books.

Cobbing, M., Daaji, S., Kopp, M., & Wohlgemuth, V. (2022). Poisoned gifts: From donations to the dumpsite: Textiles waste disguised as second-hand clothes exported to East Africa. Greenpeace e.V. https://www.greenpeace.de/publikationen/220421-greenpeace-factsheet-textile-waste-east-africa-english.pdf

Cox, R., & Pezzullo, P. C. (2015). Environmental communication and the public sphere (4th ed.). SAGE Publications.

Cross, N. (2006). Designerly ways of knowing. Springer.

Douglas, M. (1966). Purity and danger: An analysis of concepts of pollution and taboo. Routledge.

Foster, H. (2004). An archival impulse. October, 110, 3–22. https://doi.org/10.1162/0162287042379847

Greenpeace Africa. (2024). Fast fashion, slow poison: The toxic textile crisis in Ghana. Greenpeace Africa. https://www.greenpeace.org/africa/en/publications/fast-fashion-slow-poison/

Hansen, K. T. (2000). Salaula: The world of secondhand clothing and Zambia. University of Chicago Press.

Hawkins, G. (2006). The ethics of waste: How we relate to rubbish. Rowman & Littlefield.

Kopytoff, I. (1986). The cultural biography of things: Commoditization as process. In A. Appadurai (Ed.), The social life of things: Commodities in cultural perspective (pp. 64–91). Cambridge University Press.

Liboiron, M. (2021). Pollution is colonialism. Duke University Press.

Liboiron, M., Tironi, M., & Calvillo, N. (2018). Toxic politics: Acting in a permanently polluted world. Social Studies of Science, 48(3), 331–349. https://doi.org/10.1177/0306312718783087

Mensah, J. (2023). The Global South as a wasteland for Global North’s fast fashion: Ghana in focus. American Journal of Biological and Environmental Statistics, 9(3), 33–40. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ajbes.20230903.12

Nixon, R. (2011). Slow violence and the environmentalism of the poor. Harvard University Press.

Parks, L., & Starosielski, N. (Eds.). (2015). Signal traffic: Critical studies of media infrastructures. University of Illinois Press.

Peters, J. D. (2015). The marvelous clouds: Toward a philosophy of elemental media. University of Chicago Press.

Rovine, V. L. (2015). African fashion, global style: Histories, innovations, and ideas you can wear. Indiana University Press.

Schön, D. A. (1983). The reflective practitioner: How professionals think in action. Basic Books.

Starosielski, N. (2015). The undersea network. Duke University Press.

Sumo, P. D., Arhin, I., Danquah, R., Nelson, S. K., Achaa, L. O., Nweze, C. N., Cai, L., & Ji, X. (2023). An assessment of Africa’s second-hand clothing value chain: A systematic review and research opportunities. Textile Research Journal, 93(19–20), 4701–4719. https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175231175057

Published
2026-06-15
How to Cite
AgbenigaM. J. (2026). Material Memory and Visual Communication: Archival Practice in Nigerian Fabric Waste Art – The Case of Jachima Gallery. Communications. Media. Design, 11(1), 117-138. https://doi.org/10.17323/cmd.2026.31845
Section
Scientific Articles